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I don’t bethink my aboriginal activity with the man who will become my bedmate — he apparently doesn’t, either. Not because we almost noticed anniversary added at a activity or couldn’t acquisition a moment at some bar. I don’t bethink activity him because I wasn’t alike a year old, and he was alone 8.

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Our dads met through assignment years ago and anon became fast accompany (our families did, too). I may not bethink the moment I met my fiance, but what I do bethink from our adolescence is his mom’s zucchini aliment brindle with walnuts, her broiled craven lasagna with chrism booze and her jams fabricated from the wild-grown fruits of West Marin County, Calif., area he grew up.

As I cooked, I absurd [our bells guests] abiding home and unpacking their jam to advance on acceptable whole-wheat toast, activity into yogurt, dribble over ice cream. I achievement anniversary chaw reminds them of California, and of how abundant they beggarly to us.

I bethink arena hide-and-seek in their abode with a appearance of Tomales Bay, dogs consistently underfoot. And I bethink our ancestors get-togethers that continued calmly throughout the years, admitting we lived about an hour’s drive apart, abounding of rambles in the dupe and picnics on the beach, now culminating in the grandest ancestors accumulation yet: a wedding.

I’m not absolutely a bells being — admitting heaven knows I’ve abounding added than my share. Aback we got affianced I was captivated — of course, and always. But all too anon the gnashing of teeth began over the bedfellow list, the blush of the invitations, what affectionate of music to play, what array of vibe the accomplished activity would accept (think English country pub, abreast the sea). I lamented the bulk of that adored brainy activity and longed for a acknowledgment to “normal” activity — one area my better accommodation was whether I should accomplish amber rice or quinoa to serve with my broiled vegetables.

However, I was assertive of two things appropriate from the start. One, that I would broil my own bells cake. And two, that I would accomplish and can blackberry jam to accord abroad to our guests.

Don’t ask me why I anticipation this — or baking my bells block — would be a acceptable idea. I artlessly knew that I had to do it. So, I did.

Nicole Spiridakis for NPR

Blackberries are emblematic of the Northern California area we grew up and so were the accustomed best for an comestible thank-you. They abound agrarian forth the bank and in the fields, about falling into your calmly at their aiguille in backward summer (the bushes advance in a cool, balmy altitude — i.e. this allotment of the country). This year, because of backward bounce rain, the blackberries developed late, too, ushering in that ambiguous abnormality accepted in the Bay Area as “Indian summer” (or to some “true summer”).

Canning is a way to authority on to a season’s autumn bounty. Already I balance from this year’s abundant blackberry project, I plan to acknowledgment abutting year to canning applesauce and amazon sauce, burrow into authoritative asset chutney and actualize a not-too-sweet birthmark jam. Appropriate now is time for late-season tomatoes, pickles, pears, alike the aftermost bean bake-apple in abounding genitalia of the country. With annihilate aback at the farmers markets (or the garden), I can accomplish a simple broiled butternut annihilate borsch with maple abstract and can that, too.

We best our blackberries in backward summer until we couldn’t angle to attending at accession one. We best blackberries forth the blurred coast, on a hot day forth the Inverness Ridge and forth a aisle in my hometown of Sebastopol. We enlisted anyone who had a chargeless hour — and blubbery skin. We best with kids and we best with adults and we best aloof us two, a candied admonition of the purpose of all of this.

Nicole Spiridakis lives in San Francisco and writes about food, biking and her built-in accompaniment on her blog, cucinanicolina.com. Her assignment has appeared in The New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, chow.com and added publications.

Blackberry acrimonious can assume daunting, and alienated all the barbed accouterment while hunting for absolutely accomplished bake-apple while continuing on edge can get tiring. At the aforementioned time, it’s meditative. Little analytical stresses achromatic as I abounding my bowls; the scratches I becoming in the action I wore proudly as action scars.

Back in the kitchen, I angry the 20 or so pounds of blackberries we’d accumulated into jam — masses of it. I knew how abundant ability would go into authoritative 100 jars of jam, as I’m appealing accomplished in the canning process, but it was absolutely a above production. Yet this is absolutely the affectionate of assignment I like. I may not affliction — abundant — about the chantry on my save-the-date cards, but I absolutely do affliction about my jam.

Canning is time-consuming although it’s not ever arduous, alike aback undertaken in a kitchen as baby as mine. But you charge be able to sustain a few hot-water-splash burns and a burst allowance actuality and there. You’ll become able-bodied acquainted with pectin (usually acclimated to “set” jam, admitting you may agreement in accomplishing without) and will acknowledge the accurate accession of beginning auto juice.

After hours of affable bottomward the berries, bushing 103 five-ounce jars with hot jam, sealing and anchor bottomward the lids deeply and again processing anniversary one in a baptize bath, my faculty of ability was amazing (even if I accursed my actuality already or twice). I ample up those jars anxiously in a cool, aphotic place, and I coo to them every so generally in proprietary pride.

Yet I’m actual accessible to let them go.

At abounding moments during the acrimonious and canning process, I anticipation about area those blackberries were destined — some would be layered into the block I accept still to bake, alternating with ribbons of bootleg auto curd.

But best will go to our guests, all abutting accompany and family, abounding of whom are traveling a abundant ambit to be with us on our bells day. As I cooked, I absurd them abiding home and unpacking their jam to advance on acceptable whole-wheat toast, activity into yogurt, dribble over boilerplate (or lemon?) ice cream. I achievement anniversary chaw reminds them of California, and of how abundant they beggarly to us.

Of course, you needn’t use a bells as an alibi to bottle aliment for winter or for otherwise. And you needn’t use blackberries.

As Indian summer waxes in Northern California and “that day” fast approaches, my old acquaintance angry soon-to-be-husband and I accept tucked abroad a jar of blackberry jam to eat afterwards the drupe stains accept achromatic and the blitz of the bells has subsided.

Sometime, in February perhaps, we’ll accessible it up. It will aftertaste hardly bittersweet, as blackberries do aback you don’t add too abundant amoroso (I tend to err on the ancillary of beneath is more). We’ll dip spoons beeline in and bethink this summer — and all the summers afore aback we accolade over rocks and chased tadpoles in the pond as children. We’ll congratulate anniversary added on actual this aftermost mad birr and acknowledgment to our future. As continued as we accept jam, I anticipate we’ll do aloof fine.

Nicole Spiridakis for NPR

Jam Preserving Tips

— Analysis your compound afore canning to accomplish abiding you absolutely like it and additionally to ensure you apperceive what you’re doing. For example, I like to abate the bulk of amoroso alleged for, but I will analysis it out aboriginal to accomplish abiding it won’t bandy off the acidity or affect how continued the jam takes to set.

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— Jam is best fabricated in baby batches so it takes beneath time to set. I usually bifold the recipes beneath with abundant results.

— To pectin or not to pectin? Pectin is a fruit-derived jelling abettor that helps set jams and jellies added quickly. I’ve fabricated jam without, or accept acclimated slices of angel which accommodate accustomed pectin to advice clot the jam. But if you are new to canning, or don’t appetite to delay best for your jam to set, pectin is the way to go. Accomplish abiding to acclimatize the bulk of amoroso accordingly, as delicate pectin is a bit bitter.

— Sterilize jars and lids in a ample pot of baking baptize (or in the oven at 200 degrees) anon afore you ample them. The key actuality is to cascade actual hot jam into actual hot jars. Analysis the allowance on a Ball jar by acute on the lid — if it springs back, it’s not closed and should be put in the fridge. For Weck jars, abolish the metal clamps and acclaim try to lift the lid. If it comes off easily, the allowance has failed.

— Canned jam should be stored in a cool, aphotic place. It should be captivated aural one year of canning.

Easy Blackberry Jam

October 11, 20118:16 PM ET

I included pectin in my blackberry jam compound because I was afraid about my jam not ambience enough. Leave it out if you prefer. If you accept to skip the pectin, you’ll charge to baker the jam longer, conceivably a half-hour or so, and can abate the bulk of amoroso if you wish. It’s best to accomplish jam in baby batches, so try acceleration this compound in a few pots if you accept a lot of berries and ambition to accomplish a lot of jam.

Nicole Spiridakis for NPR

Makes 2 cups

1 concoction beginning blackberries (4 cups)

Juice of one baby lemon

2 tablespoons delicate bake-apple pectin

1 cup sugar

Bring a ample pot of baptize to a boil.

In a medium-sized pot, brew blackberries with a potato masher or a fork. Over low heat, activity in the auto abstract and the pectin. Bring to a rolling abscess and add the sugar, active until it dissolves. Acknowledgment to a abscess and abscess rapidly for about 15 minutes, bribery off the chrism and discarding, until the admixture thickens.

Pour the jam into antibacterial jars, abrogation about 1/4-inch amplitude at the top. Wipe the rims clean. Apply lids and catch or spiral on tightly. Action in a baptize ablution (the ample pot of baking water) for 10 minutes.

Remove from baptize ablution and set aside, absolution air-conditioned to allowance temperature, about 8 hours (the jam will added set as it cools). Press on anniversary lid. If a lid springs back, it is not closed and algidity is necessary.

Blackberry Jam Block

October 11, 20118:15 PM ET

Feeling afflicted with all the jam you canned? Fold it into block – specifically, this one. It’s candied but not too, and hardly abrasive from the cornmeal but not in an abhorrent way. It’s run through with acceptable adulate and boilerplate and is hardly breakable from the buttermilk, and the accession of a 1/2 cup of blackberry jam turns the concoction a appealing purple. Scatter turbinado amoroso beyond the top afore putting into the oven to actualize a brittle cap that finishes the block off beautifully.

Nicole Spiridakis for NPR

Makes 10 servings

1 cup all purpose flour

1/2 cup chicken cornmeal

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1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, allowance temperature

2 tablespoons cautiously grated orange peel

1 cup sugar

2 ample eggs, allowance temperature

1/2 cup buttermilk

1/2 cup blackberry jam

1 teaspoon boilerplate extract

3 tablespoons turbinado sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Adulate a 9-inch block pan with 2-inch-high abandon (I use a springform block pan).

Dust pan with cornmeal, borer out excess.

Sift flour, cornmeal, baking crumb and alkali into average bowl. Using electric mixer, exhausted adulate in ample basin until bland and fluffy. Exhausted in orange peel. Gradually add amoroso and exhausted until ablaze and fluffy, occasionally abrading abandon of bowl. Add eggs one at a time, assault able-bodied afterwards anniversary addition. Exhausted in buttermilk, jam and vanilla. Fold in dry capacity until aloof incorporated.

Transfer concoction to pan, cutting top. Sprinkle with turbinado sugar.

Bake block until tester amid into centermost comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Air-conditioned in pan on arbor 10 minutes. Run knife about pan abandon to loosen. Turn block out assimilate plate, again invert, ashamed amoroso ancillary up, assimilate rack. Air-conditioned completely.

Serve with aerated chrism and a baby basin of blackberry jam to atom on top of anniversary slice.

Popovers With Blackberry Jam And Honey

October 11, 20118:15 PM ET

Popovers acclimated to alarm me until I accomplished the secret: Keep all capacity at allowance temperature afore authoritative the batter. You’ll appetite to accomplish these adequately abutting to aback you appetite to serve them, as they’re best beginning and hot. I adulation them as an another to rolls with dinner, although they would additionally be admirable with afternoon tea, served with lots of acceptable butter, blackberry jam and honey.

Nicole Spiridakis for NPR

Makes 6 popovers

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, broiled and cooled, additional 1 teaspoon allowance temperature adulate for pan

1 cup advantageous flour

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

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2 ample eggs, allowance temperature

1 cup accomplished milk, allowance temperature

Honey, for serving

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Grease a 6-cup popover pan with the 1 teaspoon of butter.

Place the blow of the butter, flour, salt, eggs and milk into a aliment processor or blender and action for 30 seconds. Divide the concoction analogously amid the cups of the popover pan; anniversary should be about a third to bisected full. Broil on the average arbor of the oven for 40 minutes. Abolish the popovers to a cooling arbor and bore anniversary in the top with a knife to acquiesce beef to escape. Serve warm, with jam and honey.

Meyer Auto Sorbet With Blackberry Compote

October 11, 20118:14 PM ET

Sorbet is one of the easiest and best adorable desserts to make, and this one is animated by spooning maple-syrup-infused blackberry jam compote over the top. Since you acclimated auto abstract aback authoritative your blackberry jam, the adumbration of auto in the compote ties in accurately to the lemony acidity of the sorbet. Try confined this with amber accolade for an added punch. You may use approved lemons if Meyers aren’t available.

Nicole Spiridakis for NPR

Makes 2 pints, or about 5 cups, sorbet

1 3/4 cups water

1 cup sugar

1 cup honey

2 cups afresh awkward auto abstract (about 8 Meyer lemons)

1 to 2 tablespoons afresh grated auto zest

In a baby bucket over average heat, amalgamate the water, amoroso and honey. Bring to a abscess and abscess for about 1 minute, or until amoroso dissolves. Abolish from calefaction and cool. Activity in the auto abstract and auto bite and cascade into the basin of an ice chrism maker. Benumb according to architect instructions.

When sorbet is arctic (it will be soft), alteration to a accumulator alembic and awning tightly. Benumb until accessible to serve.

To accomplish afterwards an ice chrism maker, alteration the auto admixture to a 13-by-9-inch metal baking pan and benumb until close (about 3 hours), active with a angle every bisected hour or so.

Blackberry Compote

1 cup blackberry jam

2 teaspoons maple syrup

1 tablespoon cornstarch

In a baby bucket over average heat, amalgamate the jam and maple syrup, active to amalgamate well. Whisk in the cornstarch until it is dissolved. Baker over average calefaction until the jam is hardly close and abolish from heat.

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To serve, cascade over scoops of auto sorbet.

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